The Montreal Edit | A Curated Guide To Eating & Drinking Well
Some cities have a way of demanding a second chance. And that was exactly the case with Montreal. My first trip was less city exploration and more an extended exercise in retail recovery, lost luggage will do that to you, which meant the city I’d heard so much about remained largely unvisited. I spent the better part of that weekend on the phone with Air Canada, stalking my suitcase via my Airtag, replacing basics I should have had (seriously, the one time I don’t carry on), and watching Montreal pass by through a shop window instead of actually being in it. The bagels I’d read about went uneaten. The wine bars unvisited. The city, in short, went unexperienced. This time, I came back with nothing to replace and nowhere to be except exactly where I wanted. What I found was a city that had been quietly worth the return the entire time… yet this time, my luggage made the trip with me.
If you’ve been looking for a reason to go, here’s your sign. Montreal is a rare destination that checks every traveler’s box: cobblestoned streets and café culture without the transatlantic flight, a genuine change of scenery, and yes, the kind of place that practically dares you to bring home an unreasonable amount of maple syrup.
The food scene is fearless and uncompromising, the natural wine lists are extensive, and the locals have a gift for making an extended breakfast feel not just acceptable, but essential. It’s Europe without the jetlag and hefty plane fare. Trust me, it’s the kind of place that makes you wish you’d booked an extra night, especially when you see these options!
This time, I arrived with both bags and an itinerary filled with restaurants and bars. What followed was the trip that the first one was supposed to be. Whether you have 48 hours or a long weekend to spare, here is exactly how to spend it.
THURSDAY
Getting there is the easy part, and I say that as someone with a deeply complicated relationship with baggage claim. A short flight, just over two hours from Nashville, and you’re wheels down in Montreal. Clear immigration, grab your bags, and your adventure begins.
First things first: head straight to your hotel, drop your luggage, and politely beg for that early check-in. Freshen up, shake off the airplane funk, and hit the streets. You’ve got a city to eat your way through, and no time to waste.
2:00 p.m.
The Montreal Edit | Schwartz's Deli
No trip to Montreal begins properly without a stop at Schwartz’s. This legendary deli has been feeding the city since 1928, with a line out the door to prove it at any hour. Don’t let that deter you. The wait is part of the ritual. The tables are communal, the atmosphere is loud, and the smoked meat that lands in front of you will make the whole process feel completely worth it.
What makes Schwartz’s so special isn’t just the incredible meat, although it is incredible. It’s the fact that nothing about it has changed in a city that is constantly evolving. No reservations, no dress code, and no cocktails. Just smoked meat that has been brined, seasoned, and cooked the same way for nearly a hundred years. You’ll find everyone from locals grabbing lunch to first-time visitors who read about it before they even booked their flight. It is, without question, a Montreal institution that lives up to the hype.
The Montreal Edit | Schwartz's Deli | Poutine à la Schwartz
The Montreal Edit | Schwartz's Deli | Smoked Meat Sandwich
The Montreal Edit | Schwartz's Deli
3:30 p.m.
After Schwartz’s, the afternoon calls for a bit of wandering, and Darling answers with an afternoon cocktail.
The Montreal Edit | Darling
This café-bar restaurant on the corner of St. Laurent and Marie-Anne is the type of place you intend to stop into for one glass of wine and leave two hours later without apology. In fact, I made my way through quite a bit of their wine list. The decor alone is worth a stop: imagine a carousel bar, steampunk color palette, eclectic lamps, and enough visual personality to keep you occupied between sips. Order a beverage, grab a seat by the window, and let the afternoon do what Montreal afternoons do best. It’s highly likely you’ll stay longer than planned, but I promise you, you won’t regret it.
The Montreal Edit | Darling
The Montreal Edit | Darling
The Montreal Edit | Darling
At some point between the second drink and the golden afternoon light, the 4 am wake-up call catches up with you. Back to the hotel for a nap that feels both too short and completely necessary, and then the very important business of getting ready for dinner.
8:45 p.m.
If there is one reservation worth fighting for in Montreal, it is Mon Lapin. I was first introduced to Mon Lapin at a collab dinner with Rolf & Daughters in Nashville, and it was truly love at first bite.
The Montreal Edit | Vin Mon Lapin
What began as a modest, no-reservation wine bar tucked into a corner of Little Italy has become one of the most celebrated restaurants in the country. Not only has it been featured on Canada’s 100 Best Restaurant list multiple times, but it has also been ranked #5 in North America on the 50 Best Restaurants list.
The Montreal Edit | Vin Mon Lapin | Radishes + Carrots + Chicken Liver Paté + Fried Chicken Tenders
While the accolades are well deserved, they don’t quite prepare you for what dinner here actually feels like. No tablecloths, a convivial room, and menu descriptions that give almost nothing away. What arrives at the table does the talking instead, a menu that changes daily, rooted in Quebec’s terroir, executed with a French and Italian sensibility. Sommelier and co-owner Vanya Filipovic, along with co-owner Alex Landry, voted Canada’s Best Sommeliers, oversees a natural wine program that is as much of a reason to come as anything on the plate.
The Montreal Edit | Vin Mon Lapin | Homemade Strozzapreti + Baccalá + Zucchini Ragu
If you can snag a seat at the bar, take it without hesitation. Even with a reservation, I ask to sit there. Watching the kitchen from that vantage point is half the experience. Dishes coming together in real time, the rhythm of the room, it’s quite the show. Tell your server to curate the meal for you. Answer a few questions, hand over the menu, trust the process, and let them build something absolutely beautiful for you. Drink the wine…. A copious amount of it. This part is non-negotiable. The wines I enjoyed here are unlike any I've had elsewhere. Vanya does a ridiculous job with the wine list.
The Montreal Edit | Vin Mon Lapin | Quebec Lobster + Buckwheat + Rhubarb
Ask questions, let them pour, and don’t be in a hurry to leave.
The Montreal Edit | Vin Mon Lapin | Dessert Wine Line-Up
FRIDAY
10:00 a.m.
Rise and Shine! Day two has one non-negotiable, and it requires an early start.
The Montreal Edit | Dandy
Make your way over to Old Montreal and head straight to Dandy. No reservations, no exceptions, and a line that forms faster than you’d expect, even when rain is in the forecast. Get there early or be prepared to wait.
Truthfully, Dandy earns its line. Chef-owner Michael Tozzi built a menu that takes brunch seriously without taking itself too seriously. The space set the tone: high ceilings, oversized windows, retro-modern details, and enough natural light to make everything look better than it probably should at that hour. Full disclosure, this was actually my second visit. During that first ill-fated trip, the one that was derailed by the missing suitcase, Dandy was the one bright spot. The meal made the whole thing worth it.
The Montreal Edit | Dandy | Ricotta Pancakes | Maple Brown Butter Sauce + Lemon Cream
The Montreal Edit | Dandy | Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich | Apple Remoulade + Chimichurri Mayo + House Brioche Bun
Here, the Ricotta Pancakes are the move, served with maple brown butter and lemon cream; they are the thing people come back for, including myself. If you are a fried chicken connoisseur, the Buttermilk Fried Chicken Sandwich, served in a brioche bun, is the only option; if you prefer something refreshing, the Endless Summer Breakfast is perfection. As for beverages, I’d recommend starting with the Maple Latte and enjoying your meal while sipping a St. Germain Spritz.
The Montreal Edit | Dandy | Endless Summer Breakfast | Avocado + Sourdough Toast + Fried Egg + House Tzatziki +Heirloom Tomato+ Cucumber + Charred Pepper Salad,+ Currents + Dukkah
11:45 a.m.
With brunch behind you, Old Montreal has one more stop that earns its place on the itinerary. Notre-Dame Basilica sits just a short walk from Dandy and is one of those landmarks that justifies every superlative written about it.
A word to the wise: buy your tickets in advance online. The line to get in can be lengthy, and skipping it is the kind of small win that makes the rest of the day feel effortless.
The Montreal Edit | Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal
Step inside and take a moment.
The Montreal Edit | Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal
The interior is extraordinary, and photographs simply do not do justice. The deep blues, the gilded details, the sheer scale of it. Whether you are religious or not, it is the kind of space that demands a certain stillness. Take your time, look up, and consider it the most beautiful thing you will see all weekend.
12:30 p.m.
Next stop, Le Beau Marché, and before you say anything, know that exploring grocery stores in foreign cities has been part of my travel itinerary long before it became the thing everyone does.
There is something so satisfying about wandering the aisles of a beautifully curated market in a city that takes its food seriously, and Le Beau Marché delivers on every front. Load up on maple syrup, and not just one bottle; be reasonable with yourself and buy three because you know you need some for your friends back home.
The Montreal Edit | Le Beau Marché
The maple cookies are non-negotiable and pair perfectly with that morning cup of coffee. The local preserves, the Quebec cheeses, the things you cannot quite name but absolutely cannot leave without, get all of it. This is not the time for restraint. Your carry-on will manage. Admittedly, my favorite thing to grab is chips. On this trip, I snagged a few bags of Camembert and Brie & Truffle.
4:00 p.m.
After a morning filled with exploring the city, the afternoon calls for a stellar glass of wine. vinvinvin is the perfect place to press pause, collect your thoughts, and scroll through your camera roll.
The Montreal Edit | vinvinvin
The Montreal Edit | vinvinvin
The Montreal Edit | vinvinvin
vinvinvin is a small, unpretentious natural wine bar that takes its list seriously without making you feel like you need a degree in viticulture and enology to order from it. Grab a seat at the bar, tell them what you like, and they will guide you through the rest. The pours are generous, the atmosphere unhurried, and the selection of wine leans heavily into the kinds of bottles you will spend the rest of your trip trying to track down at home.
7:30 p.m.
Dinner tonight is at Lawrence. Some meals earn their own post, and Lawrence is one of them. What began as a pop-up kitchen in 2010 has become one of the most exciting restaurants in Montreal.
The Montreal Edit | Lawrence
At the helm of this 25-seat restaurant is chef Marc Cohen. He offers patrons a carefully curated and balanced seasonal tasting menu. He runs the open kitchen solo, guided by the seasons and his network of farmers and producers, resulting in a nine-course tasting experience that blurs the line between reservation and invitation.
The Montreal Edit | Lawrence | Lobster Roll (Bottom) + Lobster Coral Tartlet + Foie Gras + Radishes (Top Left) + Lobster Tandoori Papadum + Radish Chutney
I am saving the full breakdown for a dedicated post because it warrants every word, but I will say this: Lawrence has landed as one of my top meals for 2026, and this is not a designation I had our carelessly. In fact, I am not alone; Lawrence has become one of Montreal’s most thoughtful, refined, and best-executed restaurants. It’s the type of restaurant that reminds you why you travel for food in the first place. Book well ahead and arrive hungry.
The Montreal Edit | Lawrence | Asparagus + Crumpet + Smoked Herring
The Montreal Edit | Lawrence
SATURDAY
10:00 a.m.
Rise and shine, friends! Day three has an agenda, and it starts early by vacation standards. Make your way over to Arthur’s and put your name on the list before you do anything else. And I do mean before anything else. This place draws a crowd, and the wait list fills up faster than you would expect. If the wait is manageable, stay. If it isn’t, and for us it was pushing two hours, which even by brunch standards felt ambitious, pivot gracefully.
So first things first, let’s get caffeinated.
The Montreal Edit | Campanelli
If there is one morning stop in Montreal that earns an unconditional recommendation, it’s Campanelli. Tucked into Mile End, this café has quietly become one of those places that locals treat as a daily ritual and visitors like me immediately wish existed in their own city.
The coffee is exceptional, the kind that reminds you what coffee is supposed to taste like, and the pastry case is the sort of thing that makes decision-making genuinely difficult (although I must admit, you can’t go wrong with the Banana Muffin). Grab a seat by the window, order more than you planned to, and let the morning take its time.
12:45 p.m.
Arthur’s, as it turns out, was not meant to be. After a drive-by and follow-up, the waitlist showed absolutely no interest in moving in our favor. I made peace with it, waved the white flag, and walked away. Absolutely no regrets because what we found instead was Bar Bara. It was the universe’s way of redirecting us, and I’m not mad about it in the least.
The Montreal Edit | Bar Bara
Bar Bara is best described as a wine bar where everyday life is worth celebrating, and they mean that literally. Open daily from 8 am until late, this Italian institution moves through the day with the kind of effortless rhythm that most restaurants only dream of. It begins with exceptional coffee and house-made pastries, slides into tartines, eggs, and light cocktails at lunch, transitions into fresh pasta and sandwiches, and then, just when you think it couldn't get any better, it’s time for a nap.
Bar Bara has a dispensa near the entrance that stocks some incredible wines and other bits that you may need in a pinch.
The Montreal Edit | Bar Bara
No reservations, simply show up and enjoy.
Saturday afternoons are meant for exploring. Once you’ve finished lingering at Bar Bara, use this time to pop in and out of some of the charming shops in the area. You won’t be disappointed!
7:45 p.m.
Pasta Pooks has been the name on every Montreal food lover’s lips since the moment it opened, and after one visit, it is not hard to understand why.
The Montreal Edit | Pasta Pooks
I went into this trip with two dinner reservations for Saturday evening, torn between incredible pasta and classic French fare. Every single person whom I sought advice from overwhelmingly said one of two things: “ hands down Pasta Pooks” or “ how did you get that reservation? I’ve been trying for weeks now!”
The Montreal Edit | Pasta Pooks | Gambaretti Boreali
Chef Luca "Pooks" Labelle Vinci spent years perfecting his craft through legendary pop-ups across the city before finally putting down roots in Little Italy, and the anticipation that had been building for years showed up immediately in the form of a line out the door that has not let up since. In fact, Air Canada named it one of the 10 best new restaurants in the country, and yet no one was surprised.
The Montreal Edit | Pasta Pooks | Asparagi La Sublime
Walk in, look around, have a seat, and order everything that sounds good, which will be most of the menu. Pasta Pooks often has daily specials, so if one grabs your attention, place your order before it sells out. We missed the incredible squash blossoms by just minutes!
The pasta is made by hand daily, the menu rotates with the seasons, and the wine list is filled with options that make you want to ask questions and stay for another glass. The room is small, the energy is high, and the triangoli is the kind of dish that ends up in the conversation on the flight home.
The Montreal Edit | Pasta Pooks | Triangoli Con Stracchino e Funghi
If you are in need of a nightcap, Bar Bello (yes, I realize that sounds all too close to Bar Bara) is just a short walk from Pasta Pooks and makes one heck of an espresso martini.
SUNDAY
Sunday arrives the way last days always do, too quickly and with a suitcase that somehow needs to fit more than it arrived with. Collect your belongings, do a final sweep of the hotel room, and resist the urge to book a later flight. ( It’s harder than you think- trust me) There is one meal left on the itinerary.
8:30 a.m.
The Montreal Edit | September Cafe
The Montreal Edit | September Cafe | Grilled Halloumi + Apple Kale Salad + Almost Pesto + Maple Vinaigrette
I cannot think of a better way to close out a Montreal weekend than a final meal at September Cafe, and if the sun is cooperating, grab a table outside and let the morning do its thing. What began as a passion project rooted in coffee and surf culture has become one of the most beloved brunch institutions in the city, drawing lines of locals and visitors alike who keep coming back for one simple reason: everything here is fantastic. The coffee is exceptional, the atmosphere is warm and inviting, and the menu is so good that ordering just one thing feels like an epic fail.
The Montreal Edit | September Cafe | Classic Pancakes + Maple Syrup
The pancakes are the stuff of Montreal legend. Fluffy, generous, drenched in maple syrup. Seasonal variations rotate throughout the year, but the classic is the one people come back for, and for good reason. The breakfast sandwich ranks in my top 10, and if the grilled cheese with tomato soup happens to catch your eye, listen to that instinct. Fair warning, there will be a line, and it will be worth every minute of it. Get there early, find a sunny spot on the terrace if you can, and let September Cafe send you home full, caffeinated, and already planning the return trip.
Montreal has a magnetic pull for many reasons. For some, it's the closest you can get to Europe without actually going: cobblestone streets, a slower, more romantic pace, all for a fraction of the flight time and cost. For others, it's the food scene (ahem ☺️). Either way, Montreal delivers. This city doesn't do average. Take it from me, plan for three meals a day, and you’ll still leave with a long list of places you didn’t get to try.
Planning a trip to Montreal, or have a favorite spot I missed? Drop it in the comments below!
Until Next Time!
